Budapest- two lands divided by a river
Buda and Pest and the Danube River. That is what makes up the capital of Hungary, Budapest. I took a discount airline Wizz Air from Eindhoven to Budapest and the first thing I will tell you is they call it discount for a reason. Imagine if a dollar store had an airline...long crowds, no sitting areas, lack of information, no restrooms, vending machine food, you have to take a bus to get there, and no one speaks English. Oh, and the flight was delayed 6 hours. I'm not a fan of discount flights for that reason (and super cramped legs on the plane), plus they always get you with extras...want to know the seat you are in before getting on the plane? That'll be an extra 15E (each way). Bringing luggage more than a backpack? That's an extra 20E. The extras add up. Double check your math before final booking.
I went for 5 nights, which was actually 4 days because the layover got me in after midnight. When you get in and get through customs, if necessary (I have a EU id card and a US passport but they only looked at my passport), when you get out of the terminal there are metro pass machines which take credit card only; be aware and bring a spare card, check it frequently and know where and what you spent. Budapest is still very Communist block-esk, with paper punch tickets used on the metro stations. By the end of your trip you will have collected a handful of these things as either souvenirs or trash. They do make good guide book markers though. Even if you buy a Budapest Card (which I'll talk about more later) the airport is not included, so you still have to pay the 900Ft one way.
I booked in at the Walking Bed Budapest Hostel, which looked nice in the pictures, but is actually split between two buildings a few blocks apart. The one I was in freaked me out every time I left or came back after dark because it's actually a retrofitted apartment in a regular building. There is no sign, there was construction on the street, the front hall light didn't work, and it was by a bar. When I finally got in, the elevator screamed death-trap and my keys (yes, they give you a set of keys) didn't work at first and I couldn't see anything because there was no light. I eventually made it inside and found my room.
There are benefits and negatives to hostels. First off, when you check-in, they will need to see your passport and make a copy. Then you pay for the room and give a retainer for the linens they hand you (or that are sitting in a stack on the bed), when you leave, if everything is as you found it, you get that retainer back. Typically this is 5-10E. If you get in late at night, be prepared to annoy your fellow sleepers as most rooms are dormitory style with bunk beds that are sparse on padding. The exception to this rule are hostels that double as hotels or in double rooms. We stayed at the Hotel Van Gogh in Amsterdam and loved their double room.
At Walking Bed, the same people were never in the room when I came back, it was literally an overnight spot for the other 5 people in my mixed, 6 person room. This has it's draw backs, as the smell from some people (and their shoes), was stuck in this little room because no one ever opened the door for privacy. The bathroom was shared and their was a shared toilet and kitchen as well, which I eventually took advantage of on day three. At Van Gogh, we splurged for the breakfast buffet, which was worth it, at Walking Bed, no such option was available, so I ended up purchasing sandwich makings and eggs and using the kitchen instead. This is much cheaper than going out to lunch or dinner, but you loose some of the ambience of doing just that, so I recommend budgeting one night out and finding the grocery store the rest of the time. It gives a good balance.
I did buy the Budapest card on this trip because it got me into a bunch of the museums and the metro, but also a hot spring for free. Now, I didn't plan before leaving as well as I should have and I spent one cold, lonely night waiting for a tour that never appeared. Book evening activities ahead of time to avoid this. I ended up using the metro the most (mainly because I got lost a lot) and debate whether the card would have been worth it if I was a bit more directionally inclined. The museums are a great way to spend a day, especially cold, snowy, rainy days like I had. I went to the National Gallery, the National Museum, the Hungarian History Museum, the House of Terror, Momento Park, Aquincum Museum, and Lukács Baths. Like I said, I enjoy museums.
A few points of note. The Budapest Card gets you in for free to these places (except House of Terror), but they are all over the city. No two museums are next to each other, so try and map out your days as to where you want to go or you'll be sitting on a train, tram, or bus for half the day. The National Gallery, National Museum, and History Museum are the best examples throughout the years and worth it if you have several hours to walk around.
There are some free places to go as well. Just walking around the city will give you the opportunity to see the stark difference between German Nazi architecture, Communist Russian utilitarianism, and the decadence of American inspired Art Nouveau. If you go at the holidays (like I did), you may even be able to see a free concert in the churches. I went to Saint Stephen's Basilica and was awarded with a two hour free concert and Christmas Mass (which was weird hearing it in Hungarian).
The Budapest card also gets you a mini-bus tour around the Fisherman's Bastion, Palace Hill, and the National Gallery. Take it, it's worth the time to see where everything is. To get there cross the 19th-century Chain Bridge which connects the hilly Buda district with flat Pest. A funicular runs up Castle Hill to Buda’s Old Town, where the Budapest History Museum traces city life from Roman times onward. Trinity Square is home to 13th-century Matthias Church and the turrets of the Fishermen’s Bastion, which offer sweeping views. Directly across from the Funicular is the embarkation stop for the city tour. Look for the little blue, open sided mini-buses.
A recurring theme for me is to find all the Starbucks, because of their availability for electricity, toilets, and coffee. Across the Chain Bridge on the Pest side of the river is a great spot to sit and enjoy an early morning with amazing views of Parliament.
Restaurants and shopping can be pricey if you don't know where to go, so do some online searching before going out. It's worth it to find a grocery store in your neighborhood and act like a local. I find if I'm holding a coffee and have a slightly annoyed expression and walk fast, people think I'm a local where ever I go.
Finally, the baths, and what they don't tell you. I went to Lukács Baths, which was a confusing end to my trip. There are no signs in English and few attendants speak it. Things you must bring with you: toiletress (you are required to shower before using the baths), towel, bathing suit, and flipflops. You can do a cabana (which was a small walk-in closet type of room not worth the money) or the locker room. Be prepared to see lots of naked people. Hungarians aren't shy about letting it all hang out and if you are, it's going to be a rude awakening. Your wrist watch is also you locker key, DON"T LOSE IT!. If you have the Budapest Card, you get in 'all day', which for me was about 4.5 hours. There are several levels and spa treatments you can use if you can figure out the signs. I just stayed in the same area and moved back and forth between three different temperature pools. The baths are crowded, even at 8pm, and not kid friendly, so leave the little ones at home until they are around 13 y.o..
I went for 5 nights, which was actually 4 days because the layover got me in after midnight. When you get in and get through customs, if necessary (I have a EU id card and a US passport but they only looked at my passport), when you get out of the terminal there are metro pass machines which take credit card only; be aware and bring a spare card, check it frequently and know where and what you spent. Budapest is still very Communist block-esk, with paper punch tickets used on the metro stations. By the end of your trip you will have collected a handful of these things as either souvenirs or trash. They do make good guide book markers though. Even if you buy a Budapest Card (which I'll talk about more later) the airport is not included, so you still have to pay the 900Ft one way.
I booked in at the Walking Bed Budapest Hostel, which looked nice in the pictures, but is actually split between two buildings a few blocks apart. The one I was in freaked me out every time I left or came back after dark because it's actually a retrofitted apartment in a regular building. There is no sign, there was construction on the street, the front hall light didn't work, and it was by a bar. When I finally got in, the elevator screamed death-trap and my keys (yes, they give you a set of keys) didn't work at first and I couldn't see anything because there was no light. I eventually made it inside and found my room.
There are benefits and negatives to hostels. First off, when you check-in, they will need to see your passport and make a copy. Then you pay for the room and give a retainer for the linens they hand you (or that are sitting in a stack on the bed), when you leave, if everything is as you found it, you get that retainer back. Typically this is 5-10E. If you get in late at night, be prepared to annoy your fellow sleepers as most rooms are dormitory style with bunk beds that are sparse on padding. The exception to this rule are hostels that double as hotels or in double rooms. We stayed at the Hotel Van Gogh in Amsterdam and loved their double room.
At Walking Bed, the same people were never in the room when I came back, it was literally an overnight spot for the other 5 people in my mixed, 6 person room. This has it's draw backs, as the smell from some people (and their shoes), was stuck in this little room because no one ever opened the door for privacy. The bathroom was shared and their was a shared toilet and kitchen as well, which I eventually took advantage of on day three. At Van Gogh, we splurged for the breakfast buffet, which was worth it, at Walking Bed, no such option was available, so I ended up purchasing sandwich makings and eggs and using the kitchen instead. This is much cheaper than going out to lunch or dinner, but you loose some of the ambience of doing just that, so I recommend budgeting one night out and finding the grocery store the rest of the time. It gives a good balance.
I did buy the Budapest card on this trip because it got me into a bunch of the museums and the metro, but also a hot spring for free. Now, I didn't plan before leaving as well as I should have and I spent one cold, lonely night waiting for a tour that never appeared. Book evening activities ahead of time to avoid this. I ended up using the metro the most (mainly because I got lost a lot) and debate whether the card would have been worth it if I was a bit more directionally inclined. The museums are a great way to spend a day, especially cold, snowy, rainy days like I had. I went to the National Gallery, the National Museum, the Hungarian History Museum, the House of Terror, Momento Park, Aquincum Museum, and Lukács Baths. Like I said, I enjoy museums.
A few points of note. The Budapest Card gets you in for free to these places (except House of Terror), but they are all over the city. No two museums are next to each other, so try and map out your days as to where you want to go or you'll be sitting on a train, tram, or bus for half the day. The National Gallery, National Museum, and History Museum are the best examples throughout the years and worth it if you have several hours to walk around.
Momento Park is a long bus ride out of town and if you go when it's cold and overcast, you don't get to enjoy the dozen Communist statues that have been removed from the city center and set-up for visitors as much. Pack a lunch and don't be upset when the bus doesn't wait for you to get on and enjoy the hills of Buda while you wait.
There are some free places to go as well. Just walking around the city will give you the opportunity to see the stark difference between German Nazi architecture, Communist Russian utilitarianism, and the decadence of American inspired Art Nouveau. If you go at the holidays (like I did), you may even be able to see a free concert in the churches. I went to Saint Stephen's Basilica and was awarded with a two hour free concert and Christmas Mass (which was weird hearing it in Hungarian).
A recurring theme for me is to find all the Starbucks, because of their availability for electricity, toilets, and coffee. Across the Chain Bridge on the Pest side of the river is a great spot to sit and enjoy an early morning with amazing views of Parliament.
Restaurants and shopping can be pricey if you don't know where to go, so do some online searching before going out. It's worth it to find a grocery store in your neighborhood and act like a local. I find if I'm holding a coffee and have a slightly annoyed expression and walk fast, people think I'm a local where ever I go.
Finally, the baths, and what they don't tell you. I went to Lukács Baths, which was a confusing end to my trip. There are no signs in English and few attendants speak it. Things you must bring with you: toiletress (you are required to shower before using the baths), towel, bathing suit, and flipflops. You can do a cabana (which was a small walk-in closet type of room not worth the money) or the locker room. Be prepared to see lots of naked people. Hungarians aren't shy about letting it all hang out and if you are, it's going to be a rude awakening. Your wrist watch is also you locker key, DON"T LOSE IT!. If you have the Budapest Card, you get in 'all day', which for me was about 4.5 hours. There are several levels and spa treatments you can use if you can figure out the signs. I just stayed in the same area and moved back and forth between three different temperature pools. The baths are crowded, even at 8pm, and not kid friendly, so leave the little ones at home until they are around 13 y.o..
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